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PRESEXTKD BY 



A TOUR 



DOWN 



THE RIYER ST. LAWRENCE. 



Prioted for the amusement of a f«w friends. 



A TOUK 






THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 



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Priiited for tlie amusement of a few frieods. 



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PREFACE. 

During tbe summer of 1852 I made a voyage down the 
St. Lawrence, accompanied by tlie Rev. Louis L. Noble 
and our wives. As I had previously written a booli about 
the region, the duty of giving a history of the expedition 
devolved upon Mr. N., and his charming account was pub- 
lished in the New York Literary World. It so happened, 
also, that my wife, by way of gratifying one of my sisters, 
indited a familiar letter descriptive of our tour, and it is 
now printed simply for the amusement of our friends. 

C. L. 



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W. Ii. Sboemsker 



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Georgetown, D. C, Aug., 1852. 

Having finally reached home, where I can calmly 
recall the incidents of my summer rambles, some of 
which have been wild but delightful, I will try to 
give you an outline sketch of the same. From the 
fact, however, of our having been so constantly in 
motion, I have recorded but little, and will, I am 
sure, give you but a meagre impression of all that I 
have seen. 

You are already familiar with the prominent 
features of our Northern journey, as previously de- 
scribed by your brother, in his " Tour to the River 
Saguenay," and to go much into detail would only 
be a repetition. 

We left home, you will remember, on the 1st of 
June, and were joined at Catskill on the following 
day by our friends, the Rev. Louis L. Noble and 
wife, who had been pursuaded to accompany us. 
We were all in fine spirits, and anticipated strange 
events and scenes, of which we had talked so much. 
We spent a night at Saratoo;a, and expected to pass 
through Lake George; in this, we were disappointed, 
as the summer steamboat had not commenced run- 
ning on that lake. But we had a pleasant sail down 



Lake Champlain, and enjoyed the scenery much, 
since we saw on the western side the Adirondac, 
and on the eastern the Green Mountains, with their 
blue summits piercing the clouds. We had a pass- 
ing view of Burlington, a beautiful city, and saw 
the mansion of the accomplished Episcopal Bishop 
of Vermont, partly hidden among the trees, upon 
a picturesque headland. We landed at Rouse's 
Point, and took the cars for La Prairie, and thence 
about dusk, in the light of a gorgeous sky, a boat 
for Montreal, crossing the St. Lawrence, whose 
waters looked dark, angry, and billowy. This boat 
was a singular one, different from any I had seen, 
and gave the impress of a new country. 

At ten o'clock, we reached Ponagana's Hotel, 
which, by the way, has since been burnt in a great 
fire. Next morning we walked about the city, 
visited the splendid market, saw many red coats, 
with bayonets; many smiling peasant women, with 
immense straw hats, and caleches innumerable, drawn 
by little horses; but the general impression I received 
was that of gloom, probably caused by an insight 
into that great Cathedral, so huge and so unwin- 
ning in its internal structure and decorations. 

We took a single boat for Quebec, and our last 
view of Montreal, with its roofs and steeples, covered 
with unpainted tin, glistening in the rays of the 
setting sun, was imposing and beautiful; and the 
agreeable impressions of that scene were only deep- 



ened by the appearance of the broad, rapid stream, 
and the peaceful village-like aspect of either shore. 
We talked until a late hour, retired to rest, and 
after a sail of one hundred and eighty miles, arrived 
at Quebec. The morning was cold, and we suffered 
from the strong wind which was blowing up the 
river, but as we approached, we stood upon the deck 
to catch our first glimpse of Quebec. In a bay or 
bend of the river above the city, we saw timber 
rafts enough to build a city; and on an elevated 
point overlooking them, the residence of the Gov- 
ernor General was pointed out to us. The monu- 
ments to Wolfe and Montcalm, and the grand old 
fortress, all distinctly seen from the steamboat, called 
to mind my school histories; and the wooden-sJab 
marking the death-place of Montgomery had a ten- 
dency to stir up my patriotism. 

On landing we were taken in a caleche to Rus- 
sel's Hotel, passing from the Upper to the Lower 
city, through an architectural gorge, called Palace 
Gate, and at the public breakfast table we were 
waited upon by twenty Scotch and Irish servants, 
headed by a colored gentleman. We "did up" all 
the wonders of Quebec, but with considerable rapid- 
ity, because of the ruling passion of your brother 
for salmon fishing. The Cathedral is a finer, though 
smaller building than that of Montreal, with, how- 
ever, but few pictures to interest. The finest col- 
lection in the city, in my opinion, is to be found in 



the chapel connected with the Catholic University, 
which we discovered by accident in our stroll in 
that direction, and seeing some priests entering the 
chapel door, we asked to do likewise, and there saw 
some very attractive paintings, each having a won- 
derful history, as you may imagine, with regard 
to the antiquity of the same, and the very myste- 
rious manner of its falling into the hands of the 
present owners; one had decked a royal palace, 
another was rescued from the ruins of a great cathe-' 
dral, &c. 

With a permit we visited the Citadel, a curious 
place, of gigantic proportions and Gibraltar strength, 
which I will not pretend to describe. From its 
immense heights we looked down upon the Lower 
city and shipping; men and horses appearing like 
monkeys and mice, and the view far away over the 
St. Lawrence was magnificent. 

The French women were generally pretty, with 
their cheerful faces and bright eyes peering from 
under their broad-brimmed fiats; and the milk-carts 
drawn by dogs were funny. We did some shop- 
ping both in the LTpper and the Lower city, the 
latter being more amusing, for such a getting up 
and down stairs, in the open street, we never did 
before; and then, too, the class of people below were 
more peculiar, and foreign-like in their appearance. 
We had a time with the currency, but made very 



good bargains, I hope we didn't clieat. Now for 
an adventure. 

One evening two females alone, stole out of the 
Hotel, about twiligbt, with the intention of going 
into a Catholic Church near by, to hear some vesper 
music. 

We were piloted through a gate-way into an inte- 
rior church, completely hidden from the street, and 
came within sound of the organ, which was suffi- 
ciently enticing in its melody to hurry us on v/ith 
the strange old sexton, who kindly led us through 
mysterious halls into an upper gallery, where we 
found a choir of ladies practising for some festive 
church occasion. The sexton had a little conversa- 
tion with the organist, also a lady, who seemed to 
comprehend that she was playing for strangers. 
The whole number of voices were raised, evidently 
with the intention of doing their best, and we soon 
found ourselves the honored two. After many de- 
lightful strains had been sung, the organist ap- 
proached us, and said : "From the AS'^«?e.s, I presume?" 
Yes. We replied : 

Did you ever hear of Mrs. , in New York 

city ? She is a friend of mine, and Mrs. , 

of Providence, Rhode Island ? Upon being answered 
vaguely in the affirmative, with regard to the latter 
personage, the name being familiar, she seemed 
endued with new zest; smilingly returned to the 
organ, and played in a most enthusiastic manner. 



Yankee Doodle and Hail Columbia, with an air of 
trinrnph at her success, for we were completely over- 
whelmed with delight, and rushed up to thank her 
for the compliment, though I must say, our ideas of 
a consecrated church were somewhat shocked at 
this seeming desecration of the sanctuary; not that 
there is anything in Yankee Doodle inusic that 
could fire any evil in our hearts, but the ludicrous 
association of his coming to town — 

" Upon a little ponj; 
Stuck a featlier in his hat, - 
And called him Macarony^^ 

did not seem just the most appropriate thing to be 
played by a person who believed that away below, 
in the dark recesses of the altar, lay the Divine Real 
Presence ; and in spite of my education and belief 
to the contrary, I always have a feeling that in a 
Roman Church there is a little more holiness about 
an altar, from the fact that the worshipers really 
seem to believe there is; and what always astonishes 
me more, in this connection, is the other fact, that 
they ivill do such silly things in that neighborhood. 
as ringing bells under the priests' robes, and drag- 
ging off and on that poor miserable vestment of the 
more silly-looking priest. I have actually left such 
a scene with my risibilities so excited as to roar with 
laughter when I reached the street. But enough 
of church incidents. 

We had a letter to Lord Elgin, from Mr. Cramp- 



9 

ton, who was anxious that C. should meet his 
friend, the Governor General, so the letter was sent, 
thinking it might be of some service in our farther 
journeyings through Canada. Lord Elgin honored 
us with a prompt reply in the way of an invitation of 
our party to a dinner that evening, which we accepted, 
our Dominie enjoying the recreation quite as much 
as ourselves. The Governor's residence, "Spencer 
Wood," is about three miles from Quebec, and 
reached by going over the plains of Abraham; the 
grounds are beautifully wooded, and in driving 
through the avenue leading to the house, we saw 
here and there a sentinel. From the portico on 
the river-side, the view of the broad St. Lawrence 
was very picturesque. On arriving at the door we 
were ushered into a little room, where we deposited 
our shawls, and were thence shown into the draw- 
ing room, of c^rse by servants in livery. We there 
found one or two gentlemen who were apparently 
invited to meet us, and in a moment Lord and Lady 
Elgin, with Col. and Lady Bruce, entered. When 
dinner was announced, and on escorting me to the 
seat at his right, Lord Elgin took from his button 
hole a bunch of lily of the valley, and presented it 
to me, and this, with the accidental pleasure of see- 
ing a '-Tour to the Saguenay," lying on a table as 
we were leaving the drawing-room, were two incidents 
agreeable to remember; and gold plate, the first I 
ever saw, also glistens in my memory. The ladies 



10 

were elegantly but not flashily dressed, and very 
aitable and agreeable. 

Lord Elgin, who inherits a love for art, had just • 
received a stereoscope from London, and after a 
talk about that and kindred inventions, the Elgin 
Marbles, and art and literature generally, the "States" 
became the absorbing topic. Mr. Webster, Gleneral 
Cass, and other of our leading men, Mr. Crampton, 
and former Ministers from and to the Court of St. 
James. The want of discipline in the American 
course of school education was touched upon. Then 
the wonders of the Saguenay, Lady Elgin's expe- 
riences in wild expeditions in Canada and New 
Brunswick; camping out, and all that sort of thing. 
We left about 11 o'clock for the city, having en- 
joyed a delightful evening. 

The next day being Sunday, we attended church 
at the English Cathedral, where there happened to 
be an ordination, at which the venerable and fine 
looking man, Bishop Mountain, officiated, assisted 
by three other ministers. There was also the com- 
munion service, and altogether, much to interest us. 
We saw Lord Elgin and family in the Grovernor's 
seat, which was in the gallery, and designated by 
the British Coat of Arms, ornamenting the front of 
the gallery where they sat. 

We spent another day in Quebec, which was em- 
ployed by the gentlemen in preparing for a sailing 
expedition down the St. Lawrence. 



11 

At eight o'clock in the evening, we left the pleas- 
ant Hotel, and drove to the out-of-the-way dock, 
where was moored the vessel that had with difficulty 
been secured for us by our kind friend Mr. Price. 
We found her a small dingy-looking schooner, of 
thirty tons burden, named the " Marie Oyrene.'^ 
As I stepped upon deck, and gave a farewell look at 
Quebec, I must say I felt a little saddened by the 
prospect before us. We found our Captain, Boni- 
face Gerard, a young Habitant, some twenty years of 
age, and it was only necessary to give one look at 
his honest face, to be a.ssured of his ability to guide 
our vessel, and this was pleasant. But his mate, 
who seemed to have no other name than that of 
" Dan," a sleepy-looking fellow, did not promise 
much at least in appearance. He sat upon the deck, 
singing merrily, and when he saw us he began to 
smile in a most good natured way, which encouraged 
me, and he eventually proved to be an acquisition 
in affording us much amusement. 

We now looked into the cabin, and found that 
there was at least a prospect of being cozy. We 
waited for the tide, which with a fair wind, carried 
us swiftly down the 8t. Lawrence, and as I slept 
that night, lulled by the dash of water on our bow, 
I had pleasant dreams, and awoke in the morning 
with a light heart, ready to enjoy the scenery. 

Quebec was out of sight. The wild northern shore 
was mostly a rugged, rocky land, with mountain 



12 

peaks and white cliffs — the southern shore heing a 
continuous village of small white houses, with an 
occasional church spire. The river at that point 
was from tan to twelve miles wide, presenting an ex- 
panse of green water, dashed with white caps, and 
here and there a sail in the distance, but the river 
widened rapidly as we proceeded. We breakfasted 
that morning on deck, and ate heartily of ham and 
eggs, which formed the principal food during our 
stay upon the water. Our meals were cooked by 
the husbands, who cleared the table most admirably, 
washed the dishes, then the towels, and hung them 
about the mast to dry — leaving the wives to look on 
and enjoy their inappropriate work ; but we saw 
very plainly that they only did it to keep us in 
good humor, and as they seemed to enjoy their 
ludicrous position quite as much as ourselves, we 
allowed them to continue that kind of sport. We 
passed that day reading and talking, and laughing 
at " Dan'' whose every movement was ridiculous. 
Here we saw the seal and white porpoise for the 
first time. Towards evening the wind died away, 
and left us slowly floating down towards the long 
cape or sandy point* eastward of which empties the 
Saguenay into the St. Lawrence. But a terrible 
storm from the northeast arose, and we were the 
whole night trying to beat into the Sagnenay ; the 
effort was attended with much danger on account of 
hidden reefs of rock ; and on this occasion, alone, it 



13 

was that I experienced anything like fear. From 
the foot steps and voice above us that night, it was 
evident that there was cause for alarm. Once, our 
captain rushed into our dark cabin to consult the 
compass, and at our expressions of anxiety, he 
replied: "No danger, don't fret, don't fret!" but 
we were rocking and tossing about our berths in 
any other than an agreeable manner. You can im- 
agine that we were very thankful when we were 
informed by the Captain as the morning dawned 
that we were "all safe at the Saguenay," and there 
we were, nestled in a little bit of a cove, directly at 
the base of a high cliff. I could hardly realize that we 
were so far from home, although the strange aspect 
of things around, as well as our new experiences, 
were calculated to inspire a little home-sick feeling, 
but gratitude for having been spared to see the 
morning light was the uppermost thought in my 
mind. 

So soon as we could, we sent ashore our letters 
from Mr. AYm. Price, which brought to our reJief 
his eldest son, Mr. David Price, and Mr. Joseph 
Radford, his commercial agent in the lumbering busi- 
ness. We were politely received in the cottage of 
the "Radford's,'' and nothing ever seemed more 
cheerful than their pleasant abode on that dreary 
morning. We had walked from the vessel to the 
house, in real Indian style, enveloped as we were in 
blankets to protect us from the rain, and I have 
2 



14 

tliought since of the ludicrous sight we must have 
presented to the inmates of that hospitable abode. 
We talked over the dangers of the previous night, 
and C. for the first time informed us how he was 
terrified, when he stood on the deck during the most 
exciting time, at three o'clock, the wind blowing a 
gale, and the fog perfectly black; and saw the Cap- 
tain throw the lead into the raging current, when 
the result of his soundings were thirtj fathoms, and 
in less than a minute more, only three fathoms. He 
had been there before and knew the danger of enter- 
ing the Saguenay Gulf in a storm, but fortunately 
he did not tell us his fears at the time. Our Cap- 
tain, too, acknowledged that it was a narrow escape; 
and we valued his exertions so much the more when 
we found that he had been m-ged by the Captain of 
a passing vessel to turn his course and steer for Que- 
bec, but he refused to do so, and the result was, that 
we were then comfortably on shore, whilst the other 
vessel was, probably, beating about in the storm, the 
fury of which we still felt, as it whistled around and 
through the house, seemingly as if to carry it down 
into the dark and angry waters of the Saguenay. 

We spent the time within doors, with our agree- 
able friends most happily, and had determined to 
trespass upon their kindness until the storm was 
over, and we could with safety continue our voyage 
up the wonderful river. This, however, was not des- 
tined for us, as the wind changed, and continued so 



15 

high that it was utterly impossible to ascend the 
Saguenay. We were therefore compelled to take 
to our vessel again, and go with the wind further 
down the north shore of the St. Lawrence to the Es- 
coumain. We, however, enjoyed a walk up the rocky 
hills in the vicinity of the harbor call L'anse a' Leau; 
had a view of the top of that horrid wilderness lying 
between us and the northern coast of Labrador, a 
a thousand miles broad perhaps ; also of the grand 
scenery of the Saguenay ; lofty precipices and per- 
pendicular clifls, with here and there a beautiful 
waterfall leaping, as it were, from the clouds into the 
deep below. Some of our party also visited the 
neighboring house of the Fur Company at Tadousac, 
which was on the St. Lawrence, and separated from 
L'anse a"^ ieau, by a high barren hill. We bade 
adieu to our kind friends with regret, but with an 
assurance that we should never forget them. And 
as we left them, and went once more on board the 
" Marie Cyrene," we were gratified by their kind 
adieus of waving hats and kerchiefs, and also the 
firing of a gun, from a little black Steamer called the 
Pocahontas, as a parting salute j and almost as soon 
as its echoes had died away we were again swiftly 
sailing on the bosom of the St. Lawrence. We sub- 
sequently heard that in the storm which had over- 
taken us on entering the Saguenay, there had been 
nearly fifty vessels wrecked between that point and 
Quebec. 



16 

The day proved to be fine, with favorable wind 
wliicli promised fair to take us in two hours to Es- 
coumain, but it lulled, and we went slowly flapping 
along enjoying the day very much notwithstanding. 
The white porpoise, off on the dark waters, was 
a peculiar sight, and in many instances the young 
was seen carried upon the backs of their mothers most 
curiously. Now and then the black head of a seal 
would pop up, and once a large flock of gulls came 
swooping over us and lit upon the water, sailing in 
a long line for a moment, and then flying off again 
with their wings gleaming beautifully in the sun- 
light. When twelve miles from the Saguenay we 
noticed that the waters of the rival streams were 
still unwilling to mingle into one flood, and while 
the St. Lawrence preserved it, deep green hue, the 
Saguenay continued dark and gloomy. The north- 
ern shore was enveloped in blue atmosphere, and 
looking east and west there was no land visible, and 
but one lone ship in the western horizon. A gun, 
however, was fired from a canoe, and we discovered 
an Indian seal-hunter pursuing his game. We also 
heard the wild screech of the loon or northern di- 
ver, and to me, every sight and sound was new and 
strange. We amused ourselves sometimes — on that 
day in examining the specimens of sea-weed, which 
the gentlemen hooked up from the water, while they 
"drove dull care away," as best they could, now get- 
ting into the small boat for the purpose of playing 



17 

with the water, and then again smoking cigars and 
singing uncouth songs. 

Towards noon we began to feel hungry and they 
set to work to cook dinner, and, as before, we lay 
upon the deck and watched the culinary operations. 
"Dan" made a fire in the portable stove and filled 
the tea kettle from a tar-covered barrel by my side. 
Mr. N. washed the dishes and set the table, which 
consisted of the covering to the hold of the vessel, 
fixed upon two blocks of wood called fenders. There 
were placed upon it a loaf of Quebec bread, maple 
sugar, butter, pickles, and tea and white sugar, to- 
gether with a dish of mixed up ham and eggs, which 
C. had cooked in a most amusing manner, appearing 
to think that the good qualities of the mixture would 
be brought out by incessant stirring ) whether he 
proposed making an omelet, or merely to have the 
ingredients well mixed, he did not tell us, probably 
because he was laughed at, but it would certainly 
have amused your mother to have heard him say it 
was one of her dishes. However, we ate heartily of 
it, and I assure you I never enjoyed a meal more \ 
we had for dessert apples, prunes, and oranges. 

Evening was coming upon us with a heavy fog 
and rain, so that about five o'clock we were compel- 
led to anchor more than a mile from our destined 
port. We were also forced to take to our little boat, 
in spite of the storm, but, with the aid of our blank- 
ets and with the assistance of our men we were 



18 

comfortably rowed to the shore, and strange as it 
may seem to you, I never enjoyed a boat expedition 
more. We found a good log cabin, and kind peo- 
ple to welcome us, among whom was a Mr. Felix 
Tetu, of Trois Pistoles, on the southern shore of the 
St. Lawrence. He was at Escoumain, superintend- 
ing his lumber business, which was extensively car- 
ried on, in charge of Mr. Brouchette, a bachelor, 
whose house we were then occupying. You can 
imagine the horror of an old bachelor in so wild a 
region, upon seeing two ladies from the " States." 
He and Mr. Tetu tried to make us as comfortable as 
possible, and as we at first contemplated staying a 
week, we began to busy ourselves to get up a home 
look about the place. We had for domestics two 
pretty round-faced French girls in caps, who were 
willing, but oh I how ignorant of what we wanted ! 
all they did was to stand and grin at us when we 
asked them questions, for despite our school educa- 
tion in French, we could not make ourselves under- 
stood. They, however, afforded us some amusement. 
We were not sufficiently recovered from the sea-sick- 
ness which followed our last dinner on the schooner 
to relish the meals which they provided for us, and 
we agreed to live upon boiled eggs and toast, which 
we prepared for ourselves, while they stood gazing 
at our peculiar ways of cooking. Our husbands 
were well and hearty enough to eat voraciously the 



19 

salmon, trout, and pork wliicli the Frencli girls 
served up in their everlasting fry. 

One of the most entertaining persons whom we 
met on our journey was Mr. Felix Tetu. He was 
about sixty years of age, but as active as a young 
man of twenty. He was "as merry as the day was 
long," and kept us in a continual roar of laughter, 
by his anecdotes, told in half French, half English, 
and with the enthusiastic French manner. He 
would say, "oh, my dear ladye, what shall I do to 
make you happy? I got plenty money — big heart — 
want to see you pleased — but here, in this poor bach- 
elor cabin, T can do no better." He was anxious to 
go to his home at Trois Pistoles, where he had 
"good mother of familie," as he designated his wife; 
" nice house, and all things pleasant; and if the gen- 
tlemen would give up their i&shing for salmon^ we 
would go there and catch some trout;" and we soon 
began to find that this must be the end of it, since 
the sport was all spoiled by the high water and the 
net fisheries. Before retiring to bed the night after 
our arrival, the sky had become clear and we wit- 
nessed a wonderful aurora, which delighted us all, 
and nearly made our reverend friend and poet mad 
with excitement, and he wrote a description of it at 
my suggestion. And now, before I forget it, let me 
describe our sleeping apartment. In the garret, to 
which we gained access by a ladder, was a low bed- 
stead with accompaniments for one bed, out of which 



20 

we made two, placing one upon tlie floor, and whicli, 
laying all city notions aside, tlie respective pairs un- 
blusliingly prepared to occupy -, our embarrassment 
at this novel juncture of our wilderness adventures 
was, however, relieved by the fact that we had no 
light save that of the lingering aurora; and we quietly 
composed ourselves to sleep, yet not without much 
laughing. The next day was spent in strolling around 
the falls, visiting a rude log church, and investigating 
the lumbering arrangements; clambering up the wild 
cliffs to gather mosses and lichpns; and, which was 
not uninteresting, the pool w^re C. had some years 
before caught his first salmon, not forgetting a look 
at the place where he with his companion had been 
so unmercifully attacked by mosquitoes. The third 
day, we concluded that we w^ould oblige the old gen- 
tlemen, and set sail for his home across the St. Law- 
rence. Before departing, however, we requested 
that some fine salmon should be packed in snow and 
sent to our friends at home. They were directed 
to Mr. Webster, in Washington, and he afterwards 
told us that they reached him in perfect order, al- 
though forwarded from the far land of the wild Es- 
quimaux. 

Soon after embarking from Escoumain, Mr. Tetu 
hailed a canoe with Esquimaux Indians, which drew 
near. There was a man, a woman, and a child in 
it, and Mr. T. chatted with them in their own lan- 
guage. I gave some maple sugar to the child, who 



21 

took it with a happy smile; the bottom of the canoe 
was covered with sahiion and trout, the sight of 
w^hich evidently flurried a certain gentleman. We 
soon had an unfiivorable wind, and were somewhat 
disheartened, but the merry old man kept up our 
spirits by singing, dancing, and sympathizing in his 
funny way, with us poor females who were again 
somewhat sea-sick. Sunday morning found us still 
becalmed, but within a short distance of " Trois 
Pistoles.'^ A breeze fortunately sprung up, and 
taking us a little further on, we resorted to our little 
boat again, which comfortably landed us on the 
rocks within hailing idistance of Mr. Tetu's house. 
He gave a loud, shrill w^histle, which was recognized 
at home, and soon an antique looking vehicle in the 
shape of a cart with a good Canadian pony, came to 
our relief. We were then carried over the sands 
and seaweeds (which the tide had left) to the main 
shore. It was at this point that we took our final 
leave of the '^ Marie Cyrene,'' her worthy Captain, 
and the good natured, smiling " Dan," who was 
not a little amused at the recollection of the man- 
ner in which I had kept him awake at the helm 
the night previously, by yelling almost incessantly 
to him "Dan!" "Dan!" wake up! (when he was 
relaxing his hold upon the rudder,) and he would give 
a jump, convulsively sieze the rudder, turn round 
and grin. Another funny incident was his stupid- 
ity in throwing the lead, swooping it around over the 



22 

deck without looking behind, and it came within 
an inch of breaking our Dominic's head : this was of 
course followed by a roar of laughter, and a growl 
from Mr. Tetu at the silly fellow — accompanied by 
that everlasting '' sacra I" The vessel then returned 
to Quebec; and we recall those days upon the St. 
Lawrence with great pleasure. 

Arriving at the house we received a most cordial 
welcome from Madam Tette/who soon furnished 
us with neat apartments and nice beds, covered 
with snow-white spreads, the sight of which was 
refreshing; the walls were hung with a variety of 
Roman Catholic ornaments and images. The break- 
fast that morning was-a perfect luxury, especially 
to Mrs. N. and myself, w^ho had really tasted nothing 
to suit our appetites since we left Quebec, (except- 
ing the Radford's bread and butter.) 

Before the close of that day, our spirits were de- 
pressed, however, by the fact that Mrs. N. began to 
complain of sundry bad feelino-s, and was compelled 
to send for a physician. She continued in bed for 
two or three days, and could not accompany me in 
my walks and drives, which I regretted exceedingly. 
Mrs. T. attended her most faithfully, and as Mrs. 
JSf. afterwards remarked "the treatment of those 
good people to us strangers and foreigners w^as a 
beautiful example of Christian charity in this cold, 
selfish world." One of my chief amusements ther^ 
was walking in the little garden adjoining the house, 



23 

wliere I found blooming many of our early spring 
flowers, tulips, lily of the valley, pansies, and peonies, 
and narcessus, which made me feel quite at home. 
We spent one ^evening most merrily, Mrs. Tetu 
playing on the piano and singing, accompanied by 
her husband, and a son about fifteen years of age, 
after which we had a dance, the old gentleman per- 
forming at one time a solo jig, with the greatest 
activity. The gentleman spent most of their time 
in fishing, taking 170 trout on two successive morn- 
ings, from a neigboring brook. We rode one after- 
noon to the next parish, and visited Mr. T.'s exten- 
sive saw-mills there, calling on the family of Mr. 
Charles Tetu, a cousin of our host. His wife had 
eight children, the eldest eight years old, and the 
youngest five months, and never did I see a more 
beautiful group of children in one family. 

On the evening of the fifteenth of June, we had 
a thunder storm, the only one since we left home, 
and that was not severe. On the sixteenth our 
thoughts turned to the " States,'^ for that was the 
day on which Mr. Webster's friends had submitted 
his claims for the Presidential nomination. 

The time for our journey being limited, and fast 
drawing to a close, C. began to feel anxious to 
continue our course homeward; but Mrs. N. was 
advised by her physician not to venture on so rough 
a journey as we anticipated; after a consultation it 
was determined that we must separate here, the 



24 

N/s going in a day or two back to Quebec by land, 
which proved to be a delightful trip for them, as 
they had an opportunity of passing through the 
villages, or parishes which lie continuously along 
the road all the way; and they have since said they 
would not have missed their insight into the churches, 
and Canadian life generally. Their stay with the 
Tetu's was made agreeable by their evident determi- 
nation to supply the places of the friends who had 
left them, and they were as kind as possible. 

We left Trois Pistoles with regret, but it was for 
the best. The Tetu cottage w^as located in a most 
desirable and interesting position, for although 
within sight of the Labrador coast, they were 
surrounded with all that was necessary to make life 
happy, and I think of these good old people with 
pleasure, as I left them, on that pleasant morning, 
sitting like Darby and Joan, on their little porch, 
which looked upon their picturesque church on a 
neighboring point, and upon the noble St. Lawrence, 
with here and there a lonely sail, bearing tidings 
and merchandise to Quebec from the coast of Albion. 

The road from Trois Pistoles was rough, but the 
scenery of the St. Lawrence, as we rode along its 
banks, compensated us for that. Planted on the 
way-side there were crosses, which were often 
placed upon the brow of a hill, with a long flight 
of steps leading to them, presenting a picturesque 
appearance. Almost every house which we saw 



25 

in the villages through which we passed had some 
attempt at ornament, exhibiting refinement and taste, 
even among the poor inhabitants. The farming land 
was divided into narrow strips, by rude fences, run- 
ning far back, whilst the dwelling upon each fronted 
the road along the river-side. As the inhabitant-s de- 
pend chiefly for food upon the products of these 
poor farmers, it was a mystery to me how they lived, 
so barren and destitute of cultivation did the soil 
appear. 

River Du Loup is quite a pretty town, and we 
were surprised to find here a telegraphic communi- 
cation with Quebec. From the hotel where we 
stopped we had a magnificent view of the St. Law- 
rence, and I ascertained that this was a favorite 
resort for persons from Quebec, who came there to 
enjoy the bathing. I purchased there one of those 
immense Canadian flats, which the women all wore, 
and it served me as an umbrella to protect me from 
both sun and rain during the rest of my wild jour- 
ney. 

We left River du Loup next morning at six o'clock, 
in a Canadian cart, which is an open vehicle, made 
entirely of wood, with two wheels, no springs, and 
but one seat, which, however, was comfortably cush- 
ioned. In this, drawn by a little grey pony, curiously 
harnessed, we were soon on our way across the 
Grand Portage, followed by a Frenchman, in a sim- 
3 



26 

ilar cart, containing the trunks, &c. C. having 
been on the road before, preferred taking the lead. 

About a mile from River du Loup, we saw a 
beautiful waterfall, which C. has heretofore de- 
scribed, and I enjoyed a walk about it exceedingly. 
The portage is thirty-seven miles long, and strangely 
wild; up and down we went, over mountains, and 
across valleys, with astonishing ease, considering 
the rough road, but our little pony was sure-footed 
and gentle. I was delighted with the forest trees, 
which were composed mostly of evergreens, spruce, 
hemlock, and arborvitse. I would occasionally alight 
to gather a wild flower, or the leaf of some strange 
plant, and to take a drink from a cool spring or 
running stream. 

The morning was bright, but towards noon it be- 
gan to rain in showers, sometimes compelling us to 
stop at the rude cabins, scattered along the road, 
till the heavy shower was over. This, instead of 
discouraging me, only added to the pleasure, as it 
gave me a peep into wilderness life. The people were 
French, and seemed to be happy and contented in 
their rude homes. They offered us all that their 
cabins afforded for our comfort, and in some cases 
they would not receive any pay. 

We always found a gbod warm stove, which 
served in most cases to heat two apartments, by 
being placed in an opening in the board partition 
dividing the rooms; around this, we hung our wet 



27 

garments to dry, amusing ourselves meantime in 
chatting with the people or watching their queer 
movements. They were sometimes engaged in 
sweeping when we entered, and this was done with 
a broom made of bunches of arborvitae, tied to a 
long handle or stick ; never seeing any other kind, 
we supposed it was the best they had. The rain 
being over, we would take a fresh start, ac- 
companied to the door by the household, men, 
women, and children, who smiled graciously at part- 
ing, and seemed pleased with having had a visit to 
vary the monotony of their lonely life. 

As we rode along, I would sometimes look before 
me, and express surprise to see how high the moun- 
tains were, over which our road led, thinking it impos- 
sible that we could aecend, but almost before I knew 
it, I found myself on the top, and could look back 
in triumph upon the valley we had just left. We 
took dinner at a sort of inn or half-way house, where 
we had pork and eggs and black bread, but as I 
had become somewhat hardened by this " Lacedae- 
monian" fare, I made quite a decent meal. The 
good man of the house showed us some fine speci- 
mens of beaver and other skins, and had we not 
been provided already with such curiosities from 
Escoumain, we should have relieved him of them. 

In the afternoon the sun shone out bright, and 
every thing looked so fresh and green, we were glad 
the rain had fallen. 



28 

C. pointed out to me all the things in that region 
which were worthy of interest, but nothing was more 
striking than that locality or opening in the forest, 
which resembles the rocky bed of a river, and which 
he has described in one of his books. 

We reached Timiscouta about sunset, not so much 
fatigued from the journey of the day as I had anti- 
cipated. After securing lodgings, we walked to the 
margin of the lake, near by, and as we stood there, 
a young girl with her brother, apparently, he might 
have been her lover, came from the village, where 
they seemed to have gone to make a few purchases, 
as she had in her arms a bundle containing a loaf of 
bread. She was dressed in a short blue jacket, over 
a dark skirt, and of course a huge, flat on her head. 
They jumped quickly into a bark canoe, and paddled 
off to their home, on the opposite shore of the lake, 
looking very happy. We chose for our excursion 
down the lake a canoe, called a " dug-out," which 
was a long slender boat, but very substantial, made 
of a single trunk of a large tree, hollowed out; they 
are much used in that region, and are quite safe 
when well managed. We left Timiscouta next 
morning, after an early breakfast; our oarsmen were 
two Frenchmen, who were merry, and fond of sing- 
ing, which they indulged in very often throughout 
the day. The lake was beautiful, but rather rough 
at first, and I felt a little timid. We were not Ions: 



29 

in going the eighteen miles, and tlien entered tlie 
Madawaska river. 

If I had not had a single bit of pleasure since 
leaving home, I should have been willing to take all 
that long journey again, for the pleasure which that 
boat excursion afforded me. I felt perfectly happy, 
the day was fine, the water so clear that we could 
see the bottom all the time. The river was only 
about a quarter of a mile wide, and the scenery of 
its banks exceedingly picturesque, and I kept ex- 
claiming how beautiful! ^^e stopped for dinner 
at a queer looking house, where I could not eat with 
any comfort on account of the untidy appearance of 
everything in and around. Cleanliness was all I de- 
sired, but rude fare and filth were more than I could 
stand. We, hoAvever, laughed off the matter, and 
were soon on our way down the river again. 

In the afternoon, as we turned a beautiful point 
in the river, we came upon a little boat, with a 
single fisherman, who had a long string of trout, 
which we gladly purchased, determined to have a 
good supper any how. 

We were fast approaching the Little Falls of the 
St. John, and were obliged to land some distance 
above on account of the swift current. Our boat- 
men, therefore, tied the boat to the rocks, and landed 
us, and I was truly sorry to leave that pleasant boat 
and river. 

It was Saturday, and we intended to have spent 



30 

the day at the Acadian Settlement at the Little 
Falls. We, therefore, went to a nice house, where 
everything looked neat, and enjoyed our supper very 
much ] it was good enough to suit the most fastidious 
appetite. 

I did not feel fatigued in the least, and proposed 
to C. to continue our journey to the Great Falls that 
night, and he assented. It was then a little after 
six o'clock, and whilst the landlord made the arrange- 
ments for our departure, I took a look at the only 
real curiosity in the place, which was the old Block 
House, of which C. has a sketch, taken in 1847. I 
looked across the St. John's river, and saw with de- 
light the shores of Maine, as I had begun to feel 
anxious to get into a civilized region once more. 

At seven o'clock we left that place in an open 
carriage, with two horses. We reached a house at 
eleven o'clock, where our driver stopped for water. 
He went to the door of the house, and after con- 
siderable banging^ managed to wake the host, who 
came out with a candle in his hand, and jjeered 
into the darkness to see who we were; on finding 
such a respectable looking party, he admitted us. 
We saw that everything was comfortable, and catch- 
ing a glimpse of a bed in an adjoining room, we 
suddenly determined to rest there until daylight; 
the man agreed to our proposition, and we speedily 
retired to sleep. The post horn awakened us at 



81 

two o'clock, and we were on our journey in half an 
hour, just as the day was breaking. 

We arrived in the village at the Great Falls, about 
six o'clock, having been ferried over the river. We 
stopped at the house of a Mr. Hammond, where we 
heard that LordElgin and Lady Elgin had lodged, 
when they passed through a few months before. 

After breakfast, we walked to the Falls, which 
are very beautiful, and we lingered around them for 
a long time, then rambled through the woods, and 
returned to the house, after a walk of two miles. 
We slept until dinner, after which we walked again 
to the river, picking wild strawberries, and stripping 
birch trees of their bark, and scrambling down the 
banks to play in the clear amber water, and thus spent 
the day. We left next morning for Tobiquc, where 
we went to the house of a brother of Mr. Hammond, 
and were much surprised to find there, "Eobert 
Eggar," C.'s "Hermit of Aroostook," who had in 
consequence of ill-health been persuaded to leave 
his hermitage for a season, and reside in the village. 
He was just such a man as I had imagined him ; he 
was delighted to meet C, but rather shy of me, 
although he talked long enough in my presence to 
convince me that he was a man of uncommon intel- 
ligence. He sighed for his home in the woods, and 
said he should return to it soon. At his suo-g-es- 
tion C went off with an Indian, in a canoe, to fish 
for salmon and trout in the Tpbique river, leaving 



B2 

me at tlie house to sleep. There was a terrible 
thunder storm during his absence, and you may- 
imagine my anxiety. The rain was soon over, how- 
ever, and he returned, having had a " splendid 
time;" visiting some Indian huts, where he obtained 
shelter from the storm. Of course the thunder 
had frightened the fish, and he did not catch one. 
Indeed it began to be really laughable to me, so 
often had he been disappointed in that way. We 
walked in the afternoon with Mr. Eggar, went 
to the Telegraph Office, for, notwithstanding the 
wildness of the country, there was a communication 
from River du Loup to that place, which continued 
to Frederickton, making the connection from Quebec 
to St. John's. We spent some time in chatting 
with the operator, and obtained more information 
about the telegraph there than we had ever received 
in our large cities. 

We left next morning for Woodstock, in an open 
wagon, driven by an ignorant politician, from Maine, 
who talked of G-eneral Scott, G-eneral Cass, and 
General Webster, as though we had none but gen- 
erals among us. He had a regular Yankee twang, 
which amused us very much. • 

It rained all that day, but the scenery of the St. 
John was so beautiful that I did not heed it. We 
reached Woodstock, a distance of sixty miles from 
Tobique, about dark that evening. Spent the night 
very comfortably there, and next morning crossed 



33 . 

the boundary line from New Brunswick to Maine, 
and took breakfast at Houlton, wbere there is an 
American fort. Thence we went by stage to Mat- 
tawaumkeag, and stayed that night; here we saw 
congregated a large number of lumbermen, in their 
red-flannel shirts; they were resting towards evening, 
and a party were playing ball in front of a tavern; 
some of them entertained G. with a long account 
of their mode of life; he found them in a lower room 
of the house, surrounding an immense wood-fire, 
talking over their adventures. 

Next day we left for Bangor, stopping at Old 
Town an hour or two; there we took a row-boat 
across the river, and visited the Penobscot Settle- 
ment. We saw many Indians ; at one house they 
were busily employed in making a bark canoe, which 
we examined with much interest. They were 
dressed fantastically, the women in blue frocks, and 
black beaver hats, and their half-civilized notions, 
mingled with the barbarous, were amusing. 

We took the cars at Old Town, for Bangor, with 
a comparatively new sensation, so long had we been 
traveling in a primitive style. We reached Bangor 
in time for supper at the " Bangor House, '^ where 
we were refreshed by a modern bath, and were glad 
to be in a civilized region once more. 

From Bangor to Portland we went in the steam- 
boat " Grovernor," and spent the night in that latter 
beautiful city, where we found a few friends. Next 



u 

day we left in the cars for Newbury port, Massa- 
chusetts, where we stopped to visit our friends at 
" Indian Hill," about four miles from N., in the 
country; we found all well and pleased to welcome 
us after our wilderness journey. Whilst there, C. 
received a telegraphic dispatch from Mr. Webster, 
requesting him to meet him in New York on his 
way from Washington. He accordingly left me 
Avith v., and went, returning with Mr. W. to Bos- 
ton, where he was so overwhelmingly received by 
his friends, personal and political, who had failed in 
nominating him for the Presidency. Mr. W. then 
went to " Elms Farm," Franklin, N. H., and C. 
with him, to spend a few days. On their return to 
Boston, I joined them by invitation from Mr. W., 
and was delighted to see that great and good man 
once more. 

We went to Nahant and remained two days, and 
then accompanied him to Marshfield, where he was 
so cordially welcomed home by the inhabitants for 
miles around. The car in which he traveled from 
Boston was beautifully decorated with flags and 
flowers, and every one seemed to be happy on the 
road. We arrived at Marshfield on Saturday after- 
noon, and Mr. W. Avas taken in charge by a com- 
mittee, and escorted by along procession; they pro- 
ceeded to the hill near the house, where there had 
been erected a platform, from which Mr. W. ad- 
dressed the crowd which had assembled to welcome 



S5 

him to Marshfield. This was truly a most agree- 
able and unexpected climax to my journey, and I 
shall never forget the kindness with which we were 
received by Mrs. Webster and treated by all while 
there. I esteem it as an especial privilege to have 
seen this great statesman at his own home during 
the last summer of his life. He was always cheer- 
ful, and his conversation ever delightful and instruc- 
tive. 

' Whilst we were at Marshfield, Mr. Crampton, the 
British Minister, with his Secretary, Mr. Griffith, 
made a visit to Mr. Webster, and it was surprising 
to see how much he consulted the happiness of his 
guests, in making plans for their daily amusement. 

The gentlemen spent most of their time in fishing, 
and as C. had sketched and fished with Mr. Cramp- 
ton on the Potomac, it was particularly pleasant to 
meet him at Marshfield. None enjoyed the sport 
more than Mr. W. 

3Irs. W. and a granddaughter of Mr. W. (Carrie 
Appleton) and myself took pleasure rides, occasion- 
ally going to a neighboring village to shop. 

Mr. Fletcher Webster and family resided at that 
season in their summer' cottage, about a mile from 
his father's residence, and we also enjoyed their so- 
ciety. Mr. Webster took an occasional walk with 
us. and on the first day after our arrival, he showed 
me the two elms which he planted in memory of 
his two children, Julia and Edward, whose deaths 



36 

he had so much deplored. He manifested much 
emotion in recalling again those sad memories. He 
took particular pleasure in visiting his barns, and 
directing our attention to his favorite cattle. His 
accustomed seat was under the great elm, which 
fronted the house, and it was a magnificent tree. 
He enjoyed, having all his guests around him as he sat 
there, and his conversation and little ways were so 
pleasant that they were always glad to be with him. 
He was affectionate and kind in his family, and it 
was particularly gratifying to see that he was glad 
to have C. with him, and I came in for pleasant 
attention, I suppose, on his account. Mr. W. was 
invited to a dinner at Plymouth, given at the Som- 
erset House, and his guests accompanied him. I 
went in a buggy with Mr. Griffith, and enjoyed the 
drive very much; the only unpleasant thing was 
the sad accident recalled by passing over that road, 
near Kingston, for it was in going to Plymouth the 
summer previous that Mr. W. and C. had that un- 
fortunate break down, from the effect of which, 
Mr. W. was still suffering. We had a delightful day 
altogether. The gentlemen fished, and Mr. W. re- 
turned very much fatigued, yet not so' much as to pre- 
vent his being very agreeable at dinner, where there 
was a very pleasant assemblage of pilgrim descend- 
ants. Mr. W. left the parlor directly after dessert, 
and returned home with C., leaving us to follow 



37 

Boon, and on arriving at his house, we found him 
quietly awaiting us in the library. 

Next day we drove to Black Mountain, and the 
beaches, and had a fine view, as we also did from 
Gorham Heights. But to all this pleasure there 
had to be an end, for we were compelled to leave 
this charming place, after a visit of nearly two 
weeks, and return to Washington, where C.'s offi- 
cial duties called him. 

This is a long letter, and I am sorry it is not 
more interesting, but in making a journey of nearly 
two thousand miles in a hurried manner, and in the 
space of about six weeks, I had but little opportunity 
to make anything like a faithful record of events as 
they occurred; but I have, perhaps, written enough 
to show what may be accomplished during a summer 
ramble with a vagabond fisherman. 



le d 'io 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




017 397 363 9 



